NBC’s The Office, episode “The Injury:”
Dwight: Oh, man, is that a Prism Duro Sport?
Pam: You've seen one of these?
Dwight: Yeah, they're like an iPod, only they're better. 'Cause they're chunkier and more solid.
Pam: Roy gave it to me for Christmas. I'm trying to figure out how to put songs on it.
Dwight: Oh, no, no, no. Don't go there. I know this Russian website, where you can download songs for two cents a piece.
Pam: Really?
Dwight: Yeah, I'll write down the address for you. Only, the only thing is...is that all the songs, are in Russian.
Insert “German” instead of “Russian” into that conversation, and you’ll have some semblance of what my weekend in Germany was like! But despite the language barrier, I had an absolute blast in the little German town of Seebarn this past weekend.
I’ve keep a bucket list since 2004, and #1 on that list is “Ride in Germany.” (However, they’re numbered according to the chronological time I listed each item, not necessary level of importance – that being said – this one was really important one to me!) So naturally, I had to make that happen! After a difficult search to find someplace that would take this Anglophone for a weekend at a reasonable price, I finally found Reitschule Fuchsenhof, a 4-star training facility located in the rolling hills of Bavaria.
On Friday, I took the 8:09 train from Rouen to Paris to give me plenty of time to catch my Paris-Stuttgart high-speed train from Gare d’Est. It was the first time I decided against a discount airline for an inter-country journey, and I really enjoyed not having to deal with getting to an airport! After the 3.5 hour journey on the train (I think I listened to Michael Buble’s “Haven’t Met You Yet” 5 times), I was a bit hungry upon my arrival in Stuttgart. Luckily, the train station had a lot of choices. I was planning on picking out an authentic German dish, but then this sign caught my eye:
Veggie burger? At McDonald? For only 1.1 euros? Sign me up! Needless to say, it was delicious.
Then I got on the train for my Nurnberg-bound journey. At this point, I was on my 3rd of 5 train rides for the day. Each switchover along the way was at a progressively smaller railway station. By the time I got off at my final destination, Bodenwohr Nord, I was excited to not see a train for a couple of days! But I could hardly think of the negatives at that point: The area was so pretty, relaxing, quiet – and I even remember thinking to myself, “it smells so fresh here!”
A 15min wait later - apparently there had been some problems at the stable – Mr. Vetter, the manager of the place, arrived in his Mercedes (naturally) to pick me up. The ride to Seebarn was about 15 minutes. Mr. Vetter was a really nice guy, and his English was near perfect. It was starting to get dark for the night, so he drove me around the property, showing me where to go for breakfast, where to meet the instructors, etc, before taking me to the guesthouse. And what a relief the guesthouse was! After a semester in hostels, having a little studio, complete with kitchenette, was quite the haven. I soon discovered that the German version of “Dancing with the Stars” was on, so I – of course – had to tune in to that. And then naturally, after a shower and a quick snack, I decided to celebrate my arrival in Germany with a dance party! Hopefully, no one could see or hear me!
The next morning I woke up at about 8am to get ready and head down to the kitchen/meeting area of the stable. I immediately met the group of trainers. One of them, Anna, translated for me. Upon my request to go riding, she consulted with the others and said, “Ok, but we will have to see how you are on a lunge first.” Understandably, they didn’t want to give me one of their horses without proving I knew what I was doing. After about 5min on the lunge line, Anna, who was instructing me said, “Well, this is needless.” She unsnapped me from the line and I rode around, with her correcting some aspects of my position, tempo, etc. Overall, of course, I think I passed! So we made an appointment for me to go out riding that afternoon.
During my free time, I explored the stable and surrounding area a bit. Fuchensof was gorgeous, to be sure. Huge too! Its sheer size – both in term of acreage and facility – was truly impressive. With 60 really nice horses they breed and train, a well-structured riding program, a 30+ capacity guesthouse, and restaurant/cafe/bar, it’s an impressive business.
Around 2:30pm, I went back down to the saddling area, where I was presented with a new horse to groom and tack up. ½ an hour later, I was in the saddle and headed down the road with Claudia, their Bereiter, and two other apprentices. Of course, the surrounding area was beautiful: Exactly what I pictured Germany to be with dark, tree-filled rolling hills, a pretty lake, and plenty of land for animals. We even passed three of the stable’s young horses, which are set to begin their training at the summer’s end.
When I got back, after freshening up and watching a bit of German TV, I headed back up to the main quarters for dinner. It was the owner’s wife’s birthday, so my cheese/fruit toast-like dish was complemented well with a slice of cake! I talked a bit to Erich, the owner and patriarch of Fuchsenhof. We discussed the Greek economy, his daughter Birgit – who is an awesome rider, his business et cetera. Although, to be honest, it was a bit difficult maintaining the conversation. Consequently, as a result of this weekend, I’ve added “Learn basic German” to my bucket list. Soon thereafter, their son and manager arrived and we had a very pleasant conversation. Truly, my time with the people at Fuchsenhof really made the weekend.
Before going to bed, he also set me up with internet in the guesthouse, so naturally I watched the latest episode of The Office that night. However, my night wouldn’t be complete without seeing what was on the local TV channel. And it didn’t disappoint: A really humorous “music video” of a traditional Bavarian group amused me to no end!
The next day, I woke up for another solid breakfast (the restaurant/hang-out area overlooks the big arena). This time, thankfully, I didn’t spill my cup of coffee. Then I headed down to the saddling area where Anna met me. She led me to the mares’ pasture where I haltered and led Farouge back to the barn. Anna told me, “This horse, she was very successful in dressage. She is very well schooled.” I replied back, “Now I’m nervous – because I’m not!” And Anna’s reply, “Don’t worry, she will teach you!”
Anna was telling the truth. I had an amazing ride on Farouge. For one, she was gargantuan! Heafitz, at 16.3 hh, was really big. Farouge must have been at least 17.2 hh. And she was a huge mover! I even had a bit of trouble finding a secure seat to her canter.
My lesson went well, even though it was conducted in German! Aside from missing the cavaletti a couple times (I was afraid Farouge and I would run into the horse and rider pair ahead of us), doing a poor turn on the forehand (the US and German aids are different, I swear! …plus the fact she gave me directions in German), and missing my diagonal once, we did quite well. I got a nice canter out of her, and I think I wasn’ t too out of practice. Claudia did stress that I need to acquire a more vertical position. However, overall, the lesson was a success!
After a big lunch of a pancake-like dish covered with apple sauce, I went out on my last ride around Seebarn and the surrounding countryside with Claudia. Astride Gizmo, we explored the nearby forest and lake before heading back to Fuchsensof. The day cumulated with a beer (my first in Germany!), while looking over the main arena.
It was hard to leave! I feel like the family in some ways “adopted” me over the weekend. My “German mom” told me, through the aid of a translator, “You should learn German and come back!” I wholeheartedly agreed. I really hope to return someday in the not-too-distant future.
The return home wasn’t too difficult. I missed one train, Nurnberg to Stuttgart, but was able to catch one an hour later and still make my sleeper train to Paris! The sleeper train was an interesting experience, to say the least. I don’t know where it originated, but I was the last to join my car of 6, which meant I was rummaging around in the dark with my huge backpack. Somehow, however, I got to sleep just fine and slept almost the whole way to Paris. What can I say - never doubt my sleeping skills!
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